Founded in 2023 by Riku Umehara, RIKU UMEHARA centers on a contemporary interpretation of Yō no Bi—the idea that beauty emerges through function and everyday use. Umehara studied apparel technology at Bunka Fashion College before working in production management, while his upbringing in a family of ceramicists continues to inform the brand’s relationship with Japanese craft and material development.
For S/S ’27, titled “A Vessel for Living,” Umehara considers clothing as something that records daily life, where wrinkles, stains, and changes in shape become evidence of continued wear. Japanese craft appears throughout the materials and construction. The Akari Shirring Blouson uses 100% nylon ripstop, chosen for its strength and ability to transmit light, referencing the washi of Japanese lanterns. Shirring creates its rounded hem, while plum-motif quilting and an original ceramic zipper charm add smaller craft references. The Kasuri Tailored Jacket uses 100% wool vintage kasuri reproduced in Bishu, with tenugui and yukata fabrics for the lining and a ceramic button beneath the lapel.
New denim is highlighted by the Modern Shibori Denim Pants, made from 11.8oz 70% cotton / 30% lyocell black denim. Each pair is bound using a shibori process before the color is chemically removed, creating individual variations in the fading. The rear pockets are constructed internally rather than applied as traditional denim patch pockets. The Crack Active Pants use high-density cotton West Point twill softened through Nidom processing, with a front pocket inspired by kannyū—the fine crack patterns that develop in ceramic glaze. Across the collection, these references to furniture, ceramics, and Japanese craft appear in relaxed, functional silhouettes rather than as surface decoration.
