For Autumn/Winter 2026–27, KANEMASA PHIL. looks to Scandinavian and European mid-century furniture, translating its curved forms, upholstery, and functional construction into clothing. Relaxed tailoring, short blousons, and wide trousers maintain the collection’s soft proportions, while the brand continues to develop fabrics through high-gauge circular knitting rather than conventional woven construction.
This jacket combines ECONYL nylon with recycled Suvin cotton on a 36-gauge fleece knitting machine—the only one of its kind in Japan. Cut as an oversized military blouson, the pattern uses minimal interfacing, letting the fabric’s density and structure create the silhouette. The 36G Wool Fulling series takes 1/60 Super 120’s non-mulesed wool and knits it in a dense typewriter structure on a custom 36-gauge circular machine. After garment dyeing, fulling creates a washed, slightly wrinkled surface while retaining knit stretch. Elsewhere, the 46G Solaro blazer uses a super-high-gauge twill knit that combines the structure and appearance of woven fabric with the stretch and easy care of knitwear. Recycled polyester and recycled spun yarn are dyed separately through a two-bath process, creating an iridescent surface that shifts in color depending on the viewing angle. In comparison, these trousers develop a fluid contrast through high-shrink cupro and fibril processing. These use nylon in the middle yarn for stretch and a fuller hand, then sulfur-dyeing for uneven color and progressive fading with wear. Across the collection, familiar tailoring, military shapes, and furniture references become a framework for exploring what high-gauge knit construction can reproduce and replace.
