BLACKBIRD • A/W ’26

Founded in Tokyo in 2015, BLACKBIRD develops through a collaborative approach to materials, patternmaking, and construction. With the brand moniker “products are made for all the people who are socially unsocialized”, the team behind the brand looks to remain as anonymous and socially distant as a modern clothing label can be. Stockist profiles list them as a company run by people who have been working in the fashion industry, top fashion houses/handmade artisans type, and led by a president who utilizes his knowledge and experience accumulated through his long involvement in fashion. Rather than continuously replacing its core designs, the brand maintains a vocabulary of staple pieces that return each season in different fabrics and colors.
 
For A/W ’26, the collection moves between generous shirting, relaxed trousers, elongated tailoring, and substantial outerwear. This work shirt uses lightweight cotton flannel in a muted green, brown, and navy check, with raw edges at the collar, placket, cuffs, and hem contrasted by precise flat-felled seams and corozo buttons. This recurring P/O shirt returns in several colors and material variations, drawing on the loose folk and ethnic shirting of late-1960s counterculture, with its simple, loose construction providing a consistent shape to explore different fabrics. This repetition feels particularly relevant to the label—the emphasis is placed on developing a garment over time rather than treating each season as a complete reset.
 
The director’s jacket follows the same philosophy, returning as a staple while changes in color and material alter the character of its distinctive elongated front and shorter back. Across the collection, other recurring forms are similarly reconsidered through fabric, finish, and proportion. It creates a sense of continuity that is increasingly uncommon in seasonal fashion. Aligning itself with brands like Visvim and E.G., BLACKBIRD’s strength lies in how little a familiar garment needs to change to feel new.

SARTO • A/W ’26

Established in 2023, SARTO is designed by Kiyoshi Toyoshima, with Akihiko Ikeda as patternmaker. The name comes from the Italian word for tailor, reflecting a process in which design and

KANEMASA PHIL. • A/W ’26

For Autumn/Winter 2026–27, KANEMASA PHIL. looks to Scandinavian and European mid-century furniture, translating its curved forms, upholstery, and functional construction into clothing. Relaxed tailoring, short blousons, and wide trousers maintain

RIKU UMEHARA • S/S ’27

Founded in 2023 by Riku Umehara, RIKU UMEHARA centers on a contemporary interpretation of Yō no Bi—the idea that beauty emerges through function and everyday use. Umehara studied apparel technology at Bunka Fashion